1-day drive in the US Southwest: Cliff Dwellers to the South Rim
October 2018.
The following takes place entirely on day 10 (of 15) in our drive through the American Southwest. Day 9 was a long one on the road: from Flagstaff, we drove north on US-89 and US-89A next to Echo Cliffs and Vermilion Cliffs, and ending up at North Rim for our first-ever visit to the Grand Canyon. After overnighting at Cliff Dwellers Lodge, day 10 began with a stop at the Rock Houses nearby, then retracing the previous day’s drive back to Cameron, before turning west to spend the rest of the day at the Desert View section of the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. That began our first-time visit to the South Rim, spanning two days (days 10 and 11).
Total distance from Cliff Dwellers to Flagstaff (via South Rim): 217 mi (349 km).
Highlights
- Cliff Dwellers Lodge
- The Russell Rock Houses
- Little Colorado River Gorge Lookout
- Desert View, Grand Canyon’s South Rim
- Grandview Point
- Sunset at Lipan Point
Cliff Dwellers Lodge
At mile marker 547 of highway US-89A is the location of Cliff Dwellers Lodge, established near fresh water springs at Soap Creek. In the midst of a desolate “Arizona Strip“, Cliff Dwellers Lodge is an oasis: a place to eat and rest, and to stock up on supplies. The rooms are modest, clean, and cozy; the restaurant’s food is ample delicious diner fare. Additional lodging includes Lee’s Ferry Lodge at Vermilion Cliffs and Marble Canyon Lodge.

Cliff Dwellers Lodge and Restaurant.

Nestled at the foot of Vermilion Cliffs.
The Russell Rock Houses
About a quarter-mile east from Cliff Dwellers Lodge are a set of unusual formations which I mistakenly believed was of indigenous origin. In the early 1930s, Blanche and Bill Russell were travelling through the area, fell in love with the location, and dropped anchor to build stone houses and operate a trading post, serving the needs of Mormons travelling to and from the nearest Mormon church in St. George, Utah. This spot is also called “Blanche Russell Rock Houses” or “Cliff Dwellers Stone Houses”.

Russell Rock Houses. The blue paint along the window frames have faded.

Russell Rock Houses.

West-southwest view: US-89A, Soap Creek, and across Marble Platform to Echo Cliffs beyond.
Little Colorado River Gorge Lookout
Leaving Cameron and US-89 behind, we drive west on state highway AZ-64 on approach to the Grand Canyon’s South Rim. But we first stop at the Little Colorado River Navajo Tribal Park for a visual appetizer. The Little Colorado River is one of the largest tributaries feeding the Colorado River and the Grand Canyon; we had already crossed the Little Colorado River in the Painted Desert on a previous 1-day drive. Squeezed between the Coconino Plateau and the river’s upper gorge where the canyon is deep as it is wide (240 metres), AZ-64 provides easy access to views of the Little Colorado, including the Tribal Park’s east overlook between highway mileposts 285 and 286.

At the east overlook, Little Colorado River Gorge Navajo Tribal Park.

Little Colorado River Gorge: facing upstream, northeast to Shadow Mountain (top-centre).
Desert View (Grand Canyon)
This was our first ever visit to the Grand Canyon. We’d been blown away by the views of North Rim the previous day. But on this day the anticipation was high because the sun was out. We arrived at the South Rim’s Desert View, and the Grand Canyon’s eastern section did not disappoint.

Visitors at Desert View, with the Grand Canyon heading north into the distance.
Grandview Point
With a lookout point labelled “Grandview”, ya gotta go find out why. Healthy skepticism and endless curiosity are a direct route to answering that question for ourselves. In the heart of the South Rim’s eastern section, the sweeping 180-degree view is magnificent as it is memorable, particularly for the hundreds of millions of years in geological evolution visible in the exposed rock layers below. There’s also a nice bit of “closure” with the North Rim’s Cape Royal where we had visited the previous day.

From Grandview Point, north-northeast view in afternoon light.
Sunset at Lipan Point
Naturally, we stayed for sunset, a perfect way to end our 1st day in the Grand Canyon’s South Rim and another 1-day drive in the American Southwest. As dusk gave way to darkness, we drove east on AZ-64 to Cameron, then turning south to Flagstaff where we established a base for the next couple of days; our Flagstaff hosts introduced us to the delicious southern stylings at Satchmo’s. Even better conditions accompanied our visit the following day to the remaining half of the South Rim.
I made these pictures on 14 October 2018 entirely with a Canon EOS6D mark1. Thanks to AB for making this memorable trip possible. This post appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com as https://wp.me/p1BIdT-f5i.
15 Responses to “1-day drive in the US Southwest: Cliff Dwellers to the South Rim”
That is just such a most beautiful route to take, I know part of it from like 35 years ago. You are quite a passionate traveler , Henry. I forgot where you live. Well we all benefit from your trips, to get to know new and wonderful places. Thank you for sharing your travels with us. Have an inspiring and safe week.
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Hi, Cornelia. I am very tempted to return to this stretch of US-89A and drive “slower”. But, I think I want to complete the rest of US-89A west from Jacob Lake, AZ to Kanab, UT, and then “complete the loop back into AZ” by driving east on US-89 towards Lake Powell and Page. Have I mentioned I’d also like to visit Zion National Park and Bryce Canyon National Park? Perhaps next time I’d fly into Las Vegas, and drive out from there. Thanks again for commenting and for stopping by!
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Hi Henry, oh Zion and Bryce National Parks are most gorgeous, you will just love it. Have a great and safe week.
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Hi, Cornelia. I’m hopeful and looking forward to visiting southern Utah; do you have special/favourite images of Zion and Bryce National parks?
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Hi Henry, I do have a lot of images, but that was way about 34 years ago and shot analog. of course.
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Hi, Cornelia. I’m sure you have tons to do, and I can only imagine how many images you have on film. But perhaps, there’s an opportunity to make a few prints and/or a few digital copies of your favourite images, especially if they’re illuminated landscapes.
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Hi Henry, I have thought about that option very often, so far I never got to do it. Maybe your encouragement inspires me to set time aside for this project. Thank you so much
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