Five kilometres east from Greifswald is Eldena, where the ruins of a monastery sparked within Caspar David Friedrich (CDF) a motif and theme lasting decades.
I returned to Berlin’s Alte Nationalgalerie in 2017, and I had an emotional response to the sight in-person of CDF’s “Abtei im Eichwald” (Abbey in the Oakwood). And in that moment, I added CDF as a subject of historical and artistic interest.
I’m in northeast Germany almost 7 years later, standing in front of the very same ruins of a 13th-century monastery that’s ignited interest among different people around the world over centuries of time.
“Wanderer from Greifswald” info display for the 250th anniversary of CDF’s birth.
“Eldena monastery ruins in the Giant Mountains”, CDF, 1830-1834. Painting housed at Pomeranian State Museum, Greifswald.
“Eldena monastery ruins near Greifswald,” CDF, 1824-25. Painting housed at Alte Nationalgalerie, SMB Berlin.
“Abbey in the Oakwood,” CDF, 1810. Painting housed at Alte Nationalgalerie, SMB Berlin.
An evening open-air live performance of “Romeo & Juliet” at this venue would be phenomenal.
I made all images above with an iPhone15 on 7 Jun 2024. This post composed with Jetpack for iOS appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com.
With a population of about 60-thousand, about 20% are students in the university city of Greifswald. It is also the birthplace of Caspar David Friedrich (CDF), and on this 250th anniversary of his birth, I’m in town to explore some of his traces.
Next to the city’s cemetery Neuer Friedhof is a view east across pastures and meadows towards the city’s three main churches (1x).
2x digital magnification.
At 4x digital magnification, the view apart from natural growth and modern development appears similar to that in CDF’s painting shown below. A tree branch from the upper frame points down to St. Marien (St. Mary’s).The two churches at centre are Dom St. Nikolai (St. Nicholas Cathedral) and St. Jacobi (St. James).
“Wiesen bei Greifswald” (meadows near Greifswald) by CDF, 1821-1822. Original in Hamburger Kunsthalle; above is reproduction on display at the CDF-Zentrum. The exact location where CDF made his painting remains unknown, but it can’t be far off.
CDF Memorial
2009 sculpture by artist Claus-Martin Görtz; inaugurated in 2010, and located just east of St. Nicholas Cathedral.
CDF Zentrum (birth house)
The location where CDF was born is now a city museum, a centre for all things CDF.
“An dieser Stelle stand das Geburtshaus des Malers Caspar David Friedrich: geb. 5 Sep. 1774, gest. 7 Mai 1840.” / At this location was the house where painter CDF was born. The word “Kind” in German is pronounced with a short-i with the meaning “child”.
Entry for CDF as part of a big family tree.
Dom St. Nikolai
This church first appears in documents in 1263 CE. Two days after his birth, the parents of CDF brought the baby here to St. Nicholas Cathedral for baptism.
Towards the front altar.
Towards the pipe-organ, as musicians gather below for the afternoon Konzertprobe (rehearsal) for tonight’s performance at the city’s annual Bachwoche (Bach week) festival.
Marktplatz (market square)
Northeast corner of Marktplatz, facing west-southwest (2024).
“Greifswalder Marktplatz,” by CDF, around 1818; various members of his family appear in the foreground. Photo yesterday (5 Jun 2024) at Pommersches Landesmuseum.
I made all images above with an iPhone15 on 5 and 6 Jun 2024. This post composed with Jetpack for iOS appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com.
Remaining in the northeast state of Mecklenburg-Vorpommern, the university city of Greifswald is also the birthplace of Caspar David Friedrich (CDF), notable early 19th-century painter who is a centrepiece for the German Romanticism art movement. 2024 marks the 250th year of his birth, which means all sorts of special exhibitions all year throughout the country, especially in Greifswald.
Arriving in Greifswald for mid-afternoon check-in means time is short, and I head straight to the Pommersches Landesmuseum (Pomeranian State Museum) for their current CDF exhibition.
Pommersches Landesmuseum (Pomeranian State Museum)
CDF: Lifelines, 28 Apr – 4 Aug 2024. Another two CDF exhibitions will follow until early 2025.
“Winterlandschaft” (winter landscape), 1811.
“Neubrandenburg” (new Brandenburg), 1816.
“Flachlandschaft am Greifswalder Bodden” (flatlands at Greifswald bay), 1834.
“Ruine Eldena im Riesengebirge” (Eldena Ruins in the Giant Mountains), 1830-1834.
CDF self-portrait, 1805-1809.
“Schnell eilte ich die Straßen durch, auf grüne Fluhr zu kommen, wo freier die Luft uns reiner umgiebt, und fröhlich der Mensch sich fühlet.” / “I quickly hurried through the streets to get to the green fields, where the air is pure and free, and the people feel happy.” CDF.
I made all images above with an iPhone15 on 5 Jun 2024. I received neither sponsor nor support from any organization. This post composed with Jetpack for iOS appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com.
Travel day 22 is wiped out because not only is there heavy rain, but I need to put down a hacking cough that’s clung on the last couple of days. Thankfully I had the foresight of getting a comfy apartment weeks ago, and picking up groceries at the nearby shop and some medicine at the apothecary yesterday.
This is an opportunity to look back at the evening return on travel day 18 of the Halunder Jet catamaran, from Heligoland to Hamburg.
The cool open breezes over the North Sea have been left behind for the Elbe. The return voyage brings us back into Hamburg’s river harbour and its bustling port facility by the fading light of a warm late-spring day. From childhood proximity to the Port of Vancouver, I’ve always been fascinated by the sights, shapes, and sounds from a harbour and port facility.
The city-state of Hamburg celebrated the 835th anniversary of its harbour in 2024.
The port of Hamburg is Germany’s largest seaport facility. By TEUs (20-foot container equivalent units), Hamburg is 3rd in Europe, after Antwerp and Rotterdam; and in the world’s top-20.
2017 container ship “Delphis Riga” (IMO 9780665, MMSI 477234800) registered in Hong Kong.
2010 Concordia-class cruise-ship “Costa Favolosa” (IMO 9479852, MMSI 247311100) registered in Genoa, Italy. Maximum passenger and crew totals at almost 5000.
From left to right a sweeping view of St. Michael’s Church, St. Pauli’s Landungsbrücken (“jetties”) public ferry docks, and Elbe Philharmonic Hall.
I made all images above with an iPhone15 on 25 May 2024 (T18). This post composed with Jetpack for iOS appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com.
Sunday morning tradition stays strong in Hamburg’s Altona district. Along the Elbe waterfront, (tens of) thousands will show up early Sunday morning, especially on a warm sunny day, from the hours of 5 and 930am for the fish market. But there’s a lot more than fish: fresh products include fruits and vegetables; meats, sausages, and cheese; and flowers from Holland. The lively flower auction becomes an amusing spectacle, for both auctioneer and audience.
“Das grüne Herz der Stadt”: pre-bagged fruit & veggie bag, for 15€
I chose this smoked eel fillet in a bread roll: smoky, silky, tasty.
Fischauktionshalle (former fish auction hall).
Fischauktionshalle (former fish auction hall).
Flower auction: occasional sets of flowers into the audience, at zero charge. Otherwise, some great deals: colourful bundles for 10€, stuffed boxes for 30-35€.
The little girl on her dad’s shoulders receives a free bonsai, to warm appreciative “oooohs” from the crowd.
I made all images above with an iPhone15 on 26 May 2024. This post composed with Jetpack for iOS appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com.
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