Fotoeins Fotografie

location bifurcation, place vs. home

Posts from the ‘Spring’ category

My Frankfurt: Berlin Airlift Memorial, planespotting at FRA

Above/featured: Taxiing “behind” the memorial is Finnair A350-900 (A359) with oneworld livery. In summer 2022, Lufthansa’s Eurowings Discover delivered flights between Germany and North America with “wet-leased” Finnair Airbus A359s. Photo, 14 Jun 2022.

The city of Frankfurt am Main is known as: gateway into Europe for the city’s international airport; the country’s financial capital nicknamed “Main-hattan;” the city where German parliamentary governance and federalism got their start with the first freely-elected parliament for all German states in 1848; the home of Grüne Sosse and Ebbelwoi, the local savoury speciality and apple wine, respectively.

But the history shortly after World War 2 tells of an important connection between the cities of Frankfurt and Berlin.

Post-war Berlin was a landscape of occupied zones by American, British, French, and Soviet forces, a partial reflection of similar occupation in post-war Germany. Over a dispute about what monetary currency would be used, Soviet forces in eastern Germany blocked all road, rail, and water access into western Berlin on 25 June 1948. In one of the largest aircraft operations in peacetime history, the United States and United Kingdom began airlifting vital food and fuel supplies from their airbases in western Germany to over 2 million residents in west Berlin. Among the three airfields in western Berlin, Tempelhof became a key centre for critical supplies for almost one full year.

The Soviets allowed western forces to fly solely in three narrow air corridors from western Germany, over Soviet-controlled eastern Germany, and into Berlin. Inbound flights to Berlin along the southern corridor began from the area around Frankfurt am Main. The Rhein-Main Air Base (1945–2005) operated as a hub for US Air Forces as “gateway” into Europe; the base occupied the southern side of Frankfurt Airport and served as essential staging point during the Berlin Airlift operation. On 12 May 1949, Soviet forces reopened road and rail access into western Berlin, ending the blockade.

After countless flights in and out from Frankfurt, I visited the Berlin Airlift Memorial next to Frankfurt airport, as well as the planespotting area.

Berlin airlift air corridors, from West Germany into West Berlin. From "To Save A City: The Berlin Airlift 1948-1949", by Roger G. Miller, US Air Force History and Museums Program, 1998.

1948 map of Germany, north at top. 3 approved “corridors” for the Berlin airlift from Western Germany over Soviet-controlled Eastern Germany and into western Berlin. North corridor: primarily inbound from Hamburg area (HH) to West Berlin. Central corridor: primarily outbound from western Berlin towards Hannover area (H). South corridor: primarily inbound to western Berlin from the Frankfurt area (F). The three airfields in western Berlin were Gatow, Tegel, and Tempelhof. Source: Miller 1998; with labels added for clarity.

Berlin Airlift, candy drop, Rosinenbomber, raisin bomber, candy bomber, Operation Little Vittles, Douglas C-54 Skymaster, C-54, US Air Force, National Museum of the US Air Force, VIRIN 050426-F-1234P-012

On approach to an airfield in west Berlin during the airlift operation, a U.S. Air Force Douglas C-54 Skymaster makes a candy-drop, seen as tiny parachutes below the tail of the plane. Aircrews dropped candy to children during the Berlin Airlift as part of Operation “Little Vittles”. Source: National Museum of the US Air Force, photo 050426-F-1234P-01, c. 1948 to 1949.


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My GaPa: the Wank (vistas) over Werdenfelser Land

Before the reader goes on a titter, the German word “Wank” is likely related to old-Bavarian or Bairisch Wang/Weng, meaning “meadow on a slope” or “an opening in the forest”. The modern definition of the German verb “wanken” is “to stumble” or “to stagger.”

I’ve previously described southern Bavaria’s Garmisch-Partenkirchen (GaPa) and the natural beauty on offer around town. I’ve also made the ascent to Zugspitze a couple of times, particularly in glorious winter conditions. The return journey between Garmisch-Partenkirchen and Zugspitze isn’t cheap, but I was very glad to see the Alps in 5 different countries; the interested visitor should check the summit webcams for weather conditions before heading up.

If you want a cheaper alternative, there are mountain views to be had at Wank, an 1800-metre tall “hill” just north of Garmisch-Partenkirchen. Here are some equally beautiful views from the Wank summit on a visit during a warm afternoon in late-May.


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My Fuji X70: CineStill 800T (XTrans2 recipe)

Above/featured: Archangel Michael dispatching the devil: St. Michael’s Church, Vienna – 1 Jun 2023.

The Fujifilm X70 mirrorless fixed-lens prime camera has added a lot to my approach to photography for projects in domestic and international scope. To satisfy my curiosity about Fujifilm’s analog-film simulation (film-sim) recipes for varying “looks” and “palettes” applied to images, I’ve provided examples of X70 images with these recipes:

•   Ektachrome 100SW (saturated warm)
•   Fujichrome Slide
•   Kodachrome 64
•   Kodacolor
•   Kodak Platinum 200

Here I show images made with the “CineStill 800T” recipe, which Ritchie Roesch describes in Fuji X Weekly:

… CineStill 800T is Kodak Vision3 500T motion picture film that’s been modified for use in 35mm film cameras and development using the C-41 process. Because it has the RemJet layer removed, it is more prone to halation. The “T” in the name means tungsten-balanced, which is a fancy way of saying that it is white-balanced for artificial light and not daylight. … Even though the film that this recipe is intended to mimic is Tungsten-balanced, the recipe can still produce interesting pictures in daylight. It’s a versatile recipe, but it definitely delivers the best results in artificial light.

The recipe is for the X-Trans II sensor; the settings on my X70 are:

  • “Pro Neg Std” built-in film-sim
  • Dynamic Range: DR400
  • Color: -1 (Medium-Low)
  • Sharpness: 0 (Medium)
  • Highlight: +2 (High)
  • Shadow: +1 (Medium-High)
  • Noise Reduction: -2 (Low)
  • White Balance: 4300K; -3 Red, -3 Blue
  • ISO: Auto, up to 3200

I assigned this recipe for the “nighttime” setting as 1 of the 7 camera’s custom presets, but I also experimented in daylight at a variety of locations. The following JPG images are “almost” straight-out-of-the-camera; only adjustments to brightness level and a crop to a predefined image size have been applied, with no corrections to colour, contrast, geometric distortion, or rotation. I agree with Roesch’s statement about getting “best results” after dark in artificial light, but I got some interesting images in daylight as well.

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Vienna: Lichtzeichen testament to Jewish presence

Above/featured: Lichtzeichen number 10 (Stumperschul) in the city’s 6th district. Photo, 28 May 2022.

From a distance, the light seems suspended in mid-air.

Closing the distance widens my realization: it’s an illuminated sculpture that has a curved warped shape on top. That’s also when understanding narrows into sharp focus when I stand directly underneath: the shape “straightens” out, revealing itself as a Star of David.

Lichtzeichen Wien (LZ) consists of 26 structures in the Vienna region, marking former locations of synagogues, schools, temples, and prayer rooms destroyed by the Nazis in the pogrom of November 1938. During the night of 9–10 November 1938, the Nazi regime organized and carried out a systematic attack against the Jewish population in Germany and Austria. The rampage in Vienna continued for several days; most of the city’s synagogues, temples, and prayer-halls were destroyed.

Launched by the Jewish Museum Vienna and Austrian artist Brigitte Kowanz, an urban memorial project by joint collaboration of the Jewish Museum Vienna and the University of Applied Arts Vienna consists of identical columns, designed by artist Lukas Kaufmann. The commemorative project is called “Ot” (אות), which means “symbol” in Hebrew. Each “light column” sculpture stands about 5-metres high with a star of David, and includes the name of the former Jewish structure and an accompanying QR-code. Official unveiling of the memorial project occurred in 2018 on the 80th anniversary of the 1938 pogrom.

I visited and photographed all 26 Lichtzeichen locations in Vienna over a period of three summers in 2022, 2023, and 2024.


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Vienna: Stefanie Herkner’s homestyle cuisine

I’ve been thinking a lot about my father who died in 2014.

What he passed onto me are: an appreciation for authentic dining with a minimum of pretence, interests in geography and history, and an enthusiasm for highway drives and road trips. He also loved woodwork, gardening, and tinkering with the family car. By contrast, I like to dabble with memories and the act of memory.

I’ve also been thinking about how he would’ve viewed my experiences in Vienna.

In Vienna’s 4th district, cook and author Stefanie Herkner owns and operates her restaurant, Zur Herknerin, as a living memory of her father, Heinz, and her family’s Slovenian culinary heritage. Much of her story has appeared in a variety of publications: how her dad’s famous restaurant, Zum Herkner, helped spark and redefine contemporary Vienna cuisine; how she went to London to study art-and-culture management; how her parents tried to dissuade her from the restaurant industry; and how she returned home to Vienna and opened her own restaurant in mid-2013.

That’s the kind of story to pique my curiosity.

With a reservation for the opening slot at weeknight service, I arrive 15-minutes early to moderate street-traffic and a set of open doors. The space is light, airy, uncomplicated, and welcoming. A couple of servers and kitchen staff are out and about, preparing for the dinner rush. Captaining the ship is Frau Herkner, her voice a firm, steady, and encouraging guide. I chat briefly with her: I’ve flown over 8000 kilometres across the world to have a meal here, and that my love of diners and small restaurants comes from Dad, who worked many years in many diners as cook and line-cook.

What’s familiar on the dinner table to many in this part of the world is relatively new to me. My order is a delicious introduction to the family’s central European background.

Krautroulade mit Petersilerdäpfel und Rahm (Serbian-style stuffed cabbage roll): ground beef and pork fried with bacon, tomatoes, bell peppers and carrots, diced onions; that extra fat is always the flavour enhancer. The meat-and-rice mixture is stuffed into large cabbage leaves, rolled and gently simmered with garlic and bay leaves. Add perfectly cooked cut-up potatoes served with parsley, and served with a dollop of sour cream.

Almdudler-Radler: cold draft beer mixed with Almdudler, Austria’s national and herbal lemonade. The combination is refreshing on a warm early-summer day, and I think its slight sweet-and-bitter “bite” goes well with the savory Sarma.

Apfel-Strudel: phyllo pastry filled with chunks of regionally-grown apples, with cinnamon and nutmeg; light but substantive; more apple than pastry. The last polish is a Melange for a smooth finish.

To achieve her goal of delivering family favourites to customers, she emphasizes:

“Unsere Zutaten sind biologisch, saisonal, regional oder vom eigenen Hof.”
(Our ingredients come from products that are natural, seasonal, regional, or from our very own farm.)

Before leaving, I catch Frau Herkner’s attention one last time. I tell her how much I enjoy the food, and how my experience feels like an accepted invitation into her family home with, if our faith allows, the spirits of our respective fathers, present in the kitchen and at the table.

Food and ambience.
Nourishing and warmth.
A lot of heart and muscle memory.
A lot of family memory and history.
I think Dad would’ve liked this.

Because I really did; I wanted to believe.


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