Fotoeins Fotografie

location bifurcation, place vs. home

Posts tagged ‘Via Regia’

Auerbachs Keller, Leipzig, Germany, fotoeins.com

Leipzig’s Auerbachs Keller: devilishly comfortable

Goethe’s Faust meets Saxon comfort

If I didn’t know any better, I’d think I was giving away my soul for a good warm Saxon meal.

In the city of Leipzig, Germany, the name and influence of Johann Wolfgang von Goethe doesn’t stray far from conversation. Three more words are at the tip of the tongue: Faust. Pact. Devil.

Near the city’s central square at Markt, the Mädler-Passage beckons with bright lights and the promises of goods and riches within the shopping arcade. At the arcade’s north entrance, all are greeted by statues representing figures from “Faust”, the most famous published work by Goethe.

Signs to Auerbach’s Cellar lead downstairs on either side of the main passage. One thought remains as I walk into the basement. Am I sealing my own deal with the devil, setting foot in the Cellar’s chambers to sign away my freedom for some food, drink, and hospitality?

I’m sure the evening won’t be that dramatic. But the moment I walk in the door, I’m in the midst of culinary and literary tradition spanning many centuries.


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Friedriche Revolution, Peaceful Revolution, Leipzig, Saxony, Sachsen, Germany, Deutschland, fotoeins.com

Leipzig’s Stasi Corner: Die Runde Ecke

Above/featured: Leipzig’s 1989 Peaceful Revolution. Photo on 4 Dec 2014.

Before arriving at the Runde Ecke, I didn’t know I’d be visiting on the very day, 25 years to the day the building was occupied by peaceful protestors. Then again, the atrium seemed to contain lingering echoes and shouts from those very same protestors: “Wir sind das Volk! Krumme Ecke, Schreckenshaus, wann wird ein Museum daraus?” (We are the people! Crooked corner, horror house, when will this become a museum?)

Walking through the ground floor museum, there’s a stale dank smell, known as the “East German” smell. The secret cameras, the recording devices. This is where Stasi employees worked, where people were kept in Stasi prisons below. No expense was spared to monitor and collect the sights, sounds, and scents of the East German people: what they said; what, how, and where they went about their daily lives.

Blood, sweat and tears, for very different reasons.

In Leipzig, Germany, the building that’s known as the Round Corner sounds innocuous. For many, the “Runde Ecke” is synonymous with the secret police or Stasi, short for “Staatssicherheit,” representing East Germany’s Ministry of State Security.

In the early 20th-century, the building housed the headquarters to the Alten Leipziger Feuerversicherung fire-insurance company. The building was rumoured to have housed Nazi Gestapo during the Second World War, before American occupation forces moved in for a short time in 1945. The Soviet military moved in shortly thereafter, followed by the Soviet NKVD secret service and K5, predecessor to the Stasi. With the establishment of the East German State Security in 1950, the building housed the local district Stasi headquarters until 1989.

1989 is significant for the building’s historical importance to both Leipzig and Germany, and key to the story of that year’s “peaceful revolution”. The “day of decision” and non-violent demonstrations on 9 October 1989 led to the downfall of the local government. Weeks of Monday demonstrations made the building a focal point for anger and outrage. Much still needed addressing after the fall of the Wall on 9 November 1989. On 4 December 1989, protestors outside the Stasi headquarters demanded access to their files, eventually storming and taking over the building, and saving countless files from destruction.

The Runde Ecke is now home to a museum to preserve knowledge about the activities of the Stasi, and is also home to a branch office of the Federal Commissioner for Stasi Files (BStU) to ensure files are properly archived and available for research, and to ensure files remain accessible for inspection to anyone who inquires.

Runde Ecke, Friedriche Revolution, Peaceful Revolution, Leipzig, Saxony, Sachsen, Germany, Deutschland, fotoeins.com

This building housed the district administration offices of the Ministry for State Security between 1950 and 1989. During the Monday Demonstrations, protestors arrived and subsequently occupied the building on 4 December 1989. Photo on 4 Dec 2014.

Runde Ecke, Leipzig, fotoeins.com

The building’s rounded corner: “on the path of the Peaceful Revolution”

Runde Ecke, Leipzig, fotoeins.com

Bundesbeauftragte für die Stasiunterlagen | Federal Commissioner for the Stasi Files

Runde Ecke, Leipzig, fotoeins.com

“Wir sind das Volk!” (We are the people!) | Berlin Wall fragment

Runde Ecke, Leipzig, fotoeins.com

Museum in the Round Corner, with permanent exhibition “Stasi: Power and Banality”

Runde Ecke, Leipzig, fotoeins.com

Building atirum: “This building is secured by the People’s Police on behalf of the government and citizen committees!” To the left is the Stasi Museum; to the right is the Stasi-Aktienbehörde, the public authority responsible for Stasi files.

Runde Ecke, Leipzig, fotoeins.com

Leipzig – city of the peaceful revolution

“As a successful public uprising, The Peaceful Revolution is notable as an important event in Germany’s history. Over time, 9 October 1989 has established itself as a key date in the public eye as “a day of decision” when events of that very day could have turned bloody or remained peaceful. Twenty years later on the evening of 9 October 2009, about 150 thousand people gathered to mark the occasion on the Leipziger Ring for the Lights Festival. Yearly events on and around 9 October have taken shape as reminders about the steps and sacrifices people undertook for a more open present-day government.”


Open daily between 10am and 6pm, there is no charge to enter the Stasi museum in the Runde Ecke; most of the exhibition descriptions are in German. Photography is not allowed within the museum.

I made the photos above on 4 December 2014, the 25th anniversary of the peaceful takeover of Runde Ecke. Thanks to Leipzig Tourismus und Marketing GmbH (LTM) and InterCityHotel Leipzig for their support and hospitality. Access to public transport was kindly provided by LTM and the MDV Mitteldeutscher Verkehrsverbund regional transport authority. This post appears on Fotoeins Fotografies at fotoeins DOT com at http://wp.me/p1BIdT-6p4.

Meral's Imbiss, Mainufer, Frankfurt am Main, Germany, fotoeins.com

My Frankfurt: taste of Istanbul on the Main

“This is like being in Istanbul,” my friend says, in between bites of his sandwich.

Ömer, his fiancée, and I are sitting on the south bank of the river Main in Frankfurt, Germany. We’re soaking the late-summer sun. The grassy meadows are full of people: some in animated conversation; some surrounded by a big spread of food, beer, and wine; others kicking the soccer ball back and forth with their children.

There’s a whole lot of happiness here, but there’s a long line of people, waiting to purchase food and drink at the boat parked by the riverbank.

We just left that very same line after waiting for an hour. What we’re eating now made the wait worthwhile.

Over the ten-plus years I’ve known Ömer, he’s never been wrong about food in Germany.

Meral's Imbiss, Mainufer, Frankfurt am Main, Germany, fotoeins.com

Speisekarte | Food menu

Meral's Imbiss, Mainufer, Frankfurt am Main, Germany, fotoeins.com

Hamsi (Sardellen) fried-fish sandwich, “Ominade”

We each have a fried-fish sandwich: lightly fried fish in thin crispy batter, crunchy lettuce, slices of juicy tomato, stuffed in fresh soft Turkish bread. There’s a choice of Sardellen (anchovies), Makrelen (mackerel), or Doradenfilet (gilthead seabream). Ominade, freshly-squeezed lemonade according to Oma’s (Grandmother’s) recipe, is the right amount of sweet-tart, providing cool refreshment for our afternoon snack.

“The guy, the family who runs that boat, they’ve got this right, and I’ve gotta admit this feels like we’re on the Bosporus.”

High praise from Ömer: born in Istanbul, raised in Köln, and who’s gone back to know Istanbul very well in adulthood.

We’re silent over the next few minutes, chewing slowly and contemplating Istanbul. I’m realizing the obvious. If the food is any indication, I’m missing out; I’ve not yet visited Istanbul.

But right now, I’m eyeing that long line: I want another fried-fish sandwich and lemonade. But I don’t want to move; this is summer-like weather on an early-autumn afternoon on the bank of the river Main.


If you’re visiting Frankfurt am Main, make your way to the Main river to the boat called Meral’s Imbissboot (Meral’s Snack Boat). Naturally, they serve Döner, but their fried fish is too good not to try. Subject to weather conditions, the boat is open for service every day from noon to 11pm, between March and October.

Public transport: nearest U-Bahn station Willy-Brandt-Platz or Schweizer Platz.

I made the photos above on 3 October (German Reunification Day) 2011. This post appears on Fotoeins Fotopress at fotoeins.com as http://wp.me/p1BIdT-4n5.