Fotoeins Fotografie

location bifurcation, place vs. home

Posts from the ‘Winter’ category

Allgäu winter: Fellhorn in the German-Austrian Alps

Above: A group of skiers gather before their run near the Fellhorn summit.

As a product of the Canadian southwest, I’ve maintained a fascination with mountains. I don’t necessarily need to climb the mountains, but I’ve always been curious about the names of mountains, the reasons for their names, and the people who named them. I’m not always going to get answers, but if there’s a lift to take me to a view, I’m always game.

With an easy bus from Oberstdorf in the southwest corner of Germany, I’m headed 10 km south to Faistenoy for the gondola up to the summit of Fellhorn (2038 metres) among the Allgäu Alps. There’s a lot of snow up top with a depth of about 1.5 metres; skiing and snowboarding conditions look good in the Skigebiet Fellhorn-Kanzelwand (Fellhorn-Kanzelwand Ski Area). But what do I know? I don’t ski or snowboard, but the winter-afternoon light is decent on the smooth snowy landscape. I’m drawn to the information displays to learn more about Fellhorn and the mountains I’m seeing in the near 360-degree panorama. In the distance the flat-topped Hoher Ifen mountain looks like a multiple-layer cream-filled cake. I arrive quickly at a couple of conclusions: one, it’s fun to stand on a border between two countries at altitude, even if an international frontier is set somewhat arbitrarily; and two, I promise to return in the summertime to do a loop: return to Fellhorn, hike along the relatively flat ridge-line west, take the Kanzelwandbahn gondola down into Austria’s Kleinwalsertal, have a sip and nosh in one of the alpine towns, and return to Germany’s Oberstdorf on a local bus.


Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

On the bus south from Oberstdorf, at the Zweistapfenweg bus stop, facing west with Höchster Kackenkopf (1560 metres) at upper-left.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Morning light in Faistenoy, near the Fellhorn gondola lower- or valley-station.

1m12s video, ending with “Fellhorn-Gipfel Bergschau 2037 (Fellhorn summit, mountain view 2037-metres) at the upper-/mountain-station.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Morning information display inside the mountain station. In the video above, the gondola attendant mentioned their avalanche warning was raised from level 3 (significant risk) to level 4 (high risk) to better account for local conditions.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

From the mountain-station of the Fellhorn gondola: facing east, with Nebelhorn summit at upper-left.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Fellhorn, facing east.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Fellhorn and the German-Austrian frontier. The orange out-of-bounds fence straddling the ridge also marks the border between Germany and Austria. This southwest facing view includes the Möserbahn at lower-left; and the Kanzelwandbahn’s upper station at the upper right, above which is the peak Grosse Widderstein (2533 metres).

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Facing southwest: Möserbahn Bergstation (centre-right), Kanzelwandbahn Bergstation (upper right). Grosse Widderstein is the prominent peak in the background at upper right.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Inside the arrows: the orange out-of-bounds fence straddling the ridge marks the border between Germany and Austria. This southwest-facing view includes the Möserbahn at lower-left; and the Kanzelwandbahn upper station at the upper-right, above which is the peak Grosse Widderstein (2533 metres).

Fellhorn, Allgaeu Alps, Oberbayern, Fellhornbahn, Bavaria, Germany, Kanzelwand, Kanzelwandbahn, Mittelberg, Vorarlberg, Austria, fotoeins.com

Southwest view along the German-Austrian frontier. Germany: G1, Obere-Geren-Piste, from the Fellhorn mountain station (from lower-right); G2, Möse chair-lift; G3, Zweiländer chair-lift. Austria: A1, Kanzelwandbahn cable-car mountain station at a line-of-sight distance 1.6 km (1 mi); A2, Zwerenalpe chair-lift; A3, Grosser Widderstein, summit 2533 metres (8310 feet); A4, Elferkopf, summit 2387 metres (7831 feet).

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

At upper-left are Grosse Widderstein and the Kanzelwandbahn gondola with Hochkünzelspitze at upper-right. Also visible in the scene is a sprinkling of skiers.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

“I know your bones are begging to step out of your wardrobe.”

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

On the snowbank resting on the German-Austrian border (deutsche-österreichische Staatsgrenze) is this view northwest over Austria’s Kleinwalsertal, a mountain valley with alpine villages whose road access is solely through Germany.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

With Hoher Ifen in the centre-background, a group of skiers gather before their run. The orange safety-fence prevents wayward skiers or snowboarders from going over the steep ridge.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Facing west towards Hoher Ifen. The orange safety-fence marks approximately the German-Austria border along the ridgeline.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Visible peaks in the Swiss Alps, including Säntis (2502 m), visible at a line-of-sight distance of 65 km.

Fellhorn, Oberstdorf Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen, Allgaeuer Alps, Allgaeu, Oberstdorf, Swabia, Bavaria, Bayern, Germany, fotoeins.com

Facing west across the Kleinwalsertal valley. Holenke: 2044 metres elevation, 22 km line-of-sight; Diedamskopf: 2090 metres elevation, 15 km line-of-sight, and the elevated plateau that is Hoher Ifen: 2230 metres elevation, 9 km line-of-sight.

Hoher Ifen: one of the displays as translated:

The Schratten limestone slab, up to 100 metres in thickness, is folded over like a tablecloth. The original rock layer above has been eroded away over geologic time. The Schratten slab is fractured in a number of places, revealing the underlying older layers, as seen on Hoher Ifen.

Directions

From Oberstdorf Busbahnhof, I hopped on DB Regio Bus Bayern route 7 for the 15-minute ride to stop “Fellhornbahn Talstation”. The gondola up to Fellhorn is operated by Oberstdorf-Kleinwalsertal Bergbahnen.

( View this location on OpenStreetMap )

I received neither pre-visit support nor post-visit compensation for this post. I made all media above on 8 March 2017 with a Canon EOS6D mark1. This post appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com as https://wp.me/p1BIdT-f6u. Last edit: 12 Jan 2026.

San Francisco: that golden bridge again

Above/featured: In San Francisco Bay on board Golden Gate Ferry westbound to Sausalito, the Golden Gate Bridge traverses over the deep narrow strait called Golden Gate, and connects San Francisco County (left) with Marin County (right). Photo, 18 Mar 2025 (X70).

It’s easy to mistake the association of the bright “international orange” colour of the Golden Gate Bridge with the Golden Gate. The name given to the deep narrow strip of water has much more to do with the Golden Horn in Istanbul. As part of his expeditions and geographic surveys in northern California in the mid-1840s, John Charles Frémont wrote the following for 27 April 1846 (Frémont 1848, pp. 31–33):

… The bay of San Francisco is separated from the sea by low mountain ranges. Looking from the peaks of the Sierra Nevada, the coast mountains present an apparently continuous line, with only a single gap, resembling a mountain pass. This is the entrance to the great bay, and is the only water communication from the coast to the interior country. Approaching from the sea, the coast presents a bold outline. On the south, the bordering mountains come down in a narrow ridge of broken hills, terminating in a precipitous point, against which the sea breaks heavily. On the northern side, the mountain presents a bold promontory, rising in a few miles to a height of two or three thousand feet. Between these points is the strait — about one mile broad, in the narrowest part, and five miles long from the sea to the bay. Passing through this gate,* the bay opens to the right and left, extending in each direction about 35 miles, having a total length of more than 70, and a coast of about 275 miles. It is divided, by straits and projecting points, into three separate bays, of which the northern two are called San Pablo and Suisoon bays.

* Called Chrysopylae (Golden gate) on the map, on the same principle that the harbor of Byzantium (Constantinople afterwards) was called Chrysoceras (golden horn). The form of the harbor, and its advantages for commerce, (and that before it became an entrepot of eastern commerce,) suggested the name to the Greek founders of Byzantium. The form of the entrance into the bay of San Francisco, and its advantages for commerce, (Asiatic inclusive,) suggest the name which is given to this entrance.

Frémont’s description in 1848 is most likely the first documented mention, as San Francisco’s Chrysopylae (golden gate) reminded him of Constantinople’s Chrysoceras (golden horn). Today, the Greek noun has been dropped, and the world recognizes the narrow water entrance into San Francisco Bay simply as “Golden Gate”.


Around the Bay & City

Over a number of months in the Bay Area, I examined many lines of sight to the Golden Gate Bridge. My favourite has to be the Bay ferry between San Francisco and Sausalito.


Crissy Field, Crissy Field Marsh, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Crissy Field Marsh – 31 Oct 2024 (P15).

Fort Mason, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Fort Mason, next to the Great Meadow – 2 Dec 2024 (P15).

Lands End, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Lands End – 3 Dec 2024 (P15).

Treasure Island, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

In morning light, facing west from Treasure Island – 6 Dec 2024 (P15).

China Beach, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Midday light at China Beach – 6 Dec 2024 (P15).

Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Center, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Dusk from the Golden Gate Bridge Welcome Center – 9 Dec 2024 (P15).

Torpedo Wharf, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Torpedo Wharf – 26 Dec 2024 (P15).

San Francisco National Cemetery, The Presidio, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

San Francisco National Cemetery, facing northwest – 28 Dec 2024 (P15).

Powell-Hyde cable car turntable, Maritime Park, Aquatic Cove, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Powell-Hyde cable car turntable at dawn – 31 Dec 2024 (P15).

Coastal Trail, Lands End, GGNRA, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

From the Coastal Trail, east to Lands End. Photo, 5 Jan 2025 (X70).

Hamon Tower, De Young Museum, Golden Gate Park, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

At upper right, the tops of the bridge towers appear over The Presidio, from de Young Museum’s Hamon Tower – 7 Jan 2025 (P15).

Battery Godfrey, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

From Battery Godfrey in The Presidio. Access is from the Coastal Trail or the Golden Gate Bridge Visitor Center. Photo, 13 Jan 2025 (X70).

Twin Peaks, Christmas Tree Point, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

From Twin Peaks’ Christmas Tree Point, the Golden Gate bridge appears at top-centre; at right are St. Ignatius church and the University of San Francisco campus. Photo, 28 Jan 2025 (P15).

Marina Promenade, The Marina, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Marina Promenade – 5 Feb 2025 (P15).

Aquatic Cove, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Aquatic Cove: the bridge is almost fully covered in fog. Photo, 16 Feb 2025 (P15).

Emeryville Marina Park, Emeryville, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

From Emeryville Marina Park: sunset intercepts one of the bridge’s towers – 25 Feb 2025 (P15).

Fort Point, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Underneath the bridge at Fort Point – 28 Feb 2025 (P15).

Fort Point, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Next to the entrance for Fort Point and in front of Golden Gate strait – 28 Feb 2025 (P15).

Baker Beach, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

Baker Beach – 11 Mar 2025 (P15).

Richardson Bay, Golden Gate Ferry, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

In Richardson Bay, on Golden Gate Ferry westbound to Sausalito. The Sutro Tower also makes an appearance at left. Photo, 18 Mar 2025 (P15).

Battery Marcus Miller, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

The Presidio, over Battery Marcus Miller – 26 Mar 2025 (P15).

UCSF Parnassus Heights, Parnassus Heights, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

From UCSF Parnassus Heights: at left-centre is The Landmark at Presidio (former military hospital), and at upper-right are the towers of the Golden Gate Bridge. Photo, 29 Mar 2025 (P15).

Presidio Tunnel Tops, The Presidio, Golden Gate, Golden Gate Bridge, San Francisco, Bay Area, California, USA, fotoeins.com

From the Tunnel Tops at the Presidio – 31 Mar 2025 (X70).


Sources

•   Fremont, J.C., “Geographical memoir upon upper California, addressed to the Senate of the United States in 1848“, 30th United States Congress, no. 148 (Philadelphia: William McCarty, 1848). Digitized in 2015 by and online access at Internet Archive, via San Francisco Public Library: https://archive.org/stream/geographicalmemo00frmo_0/geographicalmemo00frmo_0_djvu.txt [last accessed May 2025].
•   Fremont, J.C., “Map of Oregon and upper California from the surveys of John Charles Frémont and other authorities“, U.S. Library of Congress online: https://www.loc.gov/item/79692905/ [last accessed May 2025].

Golden Gate, Charles Preuss, John Charles Frémont, Northern California, San Francisco, Bay Area

Section from Charles Preuss’ 1848 map included with John Charles Frémont’s 1848 memoir of his expeditions into Northern California. Reminding him of the Golden horn in Constantinople, Frémont named the narrow strait into San Francisco Bay as Chrysopylae or “Golden Gate”.


I made all photos above between 31 October 2024 and 31 March 2025 with a Fujifilm X70 fixed-lens prime (X70) and an iPhone15 (P15). I received neither request nor compensation for the content described here. This post appears on Fotoeins Fotografie at fotoeins DOT com as https://wp.me/p1BIdT-uS3.

San Francisco: Sam Wo tradition near the close

(Chinatown)

If a place provides repeatedly good reminders of personal cultural heritage through food, my expectation is one of a long-standing nature to the point of being eternal. But human beings are temporal and ephemeral, and this fact of nature must unfortunately extend to human institutions.

At address 713 Clay (near Kearny), Sam Wo (三和)* is a restaurant in San Francisco, operating as one of the oldest restaurants in the city’s Chinatown. The present owners have retired, their adult children are moving on, and the new ownership has put the future of the restaurant in question. The final day of operations is 27 January 2025, only a handful of days before Chinese New Year. Perhaps it’ll be a pause. And perhaps it’ll be gone.

I’d done my research prior to arrival, only to discover within weeks the restaurant would soon be closed. In the remaining weeks surrounding the Christmas and New Year’s holidays, I promised myself at least one visit to Sam Wo each week until the end: that their excellent “wok6 hei3” (鑊氣) is no hindrance but an encouragement. The quality of their “stir fry essence” means every meal is delicious, with every bite and flavour pointing directly to memories of an upbringing raised by immigrant parents from China’s southern province of Canton and a big chunk of time spent walking and eating within Vancouver’s Chinatown in the 1970s and 80s.

I haven’t been here in the Bay Area very long, but in Sam Wo, I found a place a little like home, where I could also polish my rust in Cantonese (廣東話) and Toisan/Hoisan (台山語). I’ll be sad to see them go, and melt away into the annals of San Francisco’s much-storied Chinatown.

* The full name for Sam Wo is 三和粥粉麵, (read here left to right) whose first 2 characters represent “three harmonies” for congee (粥), broad flat rice noodles (粉), and thin egg noodles (麵). Historically, Chinese was written right to left.

The place, the food …

2025 postscript: there are new owners, and the new re-opening is Friday, September 5.

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Seattle: Licton Springs indigenous landmark

This is “líqtəd”, commonly known today in Seattle as Licton Springs.

This place is the city’s first indigenous landmark.⁣⁣

⁣⁣In a corner of Licton Springs Park, a couple of wood bridges cross over small creeks. Despite encroachment by urbanization over many decades and the pressure of being squeezed between Aurora Avenue and the Interstate-5 freeway, the water flow has essentially continued from the time before white/European colonization. Four springs and their emergent creeks flowed south into what is now called Green Lake. One of these springs, the “iron sulphur spring”, remains visible with its outflow merging downstream with a larger creek, as iron-oxide mud stains the ground red. The word “líqtəd” in the Lushootseed language means “red paint”. A recently installed cement ring-collar provides some protection around the spring as an attempt to preserving this historic location. As sacred site once used for medicinal and cultural activity, the Duwamish people camped and built sweat lodges near these springs; they bathed in the mineral-rich waters and used the brightly coloured mud to make paint. The second main spring, “white magnesium spring” at the park’s southern end, is no longer visible after having been capped under another existing pond.

⁣⁣On 16 October 2019, the city of Seattle’s Landmarks Preservation Board approved the designation of the indigenous Duwamish site. Licton Springs Park received official historical recognition as the city’s first indigenous landmark.

( Click here for images and more )

Seattle: Sand Point Sculptures (A Sound Garden)

Above/featured: On the Art Walk trail.

In northeast Seattle, the NOAA Art Walk is contained fully within the campus of the National Oceanic and Atmospheric Administration Western Regional Center (NOAA WRC), located at Sand Point next to Magnuson Park. Initially, I’d intended only to visit one sculpture from which a “fairly successful” local band got its name. I explored the entirety of the Art Walk on a breezy sunny early-spring morning for an easy peaceful walk on a trail hugging Lake Washington’s shoreline. Over a two- to three-hour period, I encountered only a handful of other visitors, some of whom may have been NOAA staff.


( Click here for images and more )