Posts tagged ‘Garmisch-Partenkirchen’

Of bovines and alpine meadows, in Oberbayern’s Hausberg

It’s a bright autumn afternoon in Oberbayern (Upper Bavaria), and the cogwheel railway is on the descent from Zugspitze, returning to the valley base in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

The train slows on approach to station “Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hausberg”, a short one- to two-kilometres southwest from the twin towns.

Loisach valley, east to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bayerische Zugspitzbahn, fotoeins.com
Loisach valley, east to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bayerische Zugspitzbahn, fotoeins.com

Loisach valley, east to Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Train station, Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hausberg, fotoeins.com

Train stop “Hausberg”

Stepping out at Hausberg

Doors to the stuffy train compartment open out to the breeze riding down the Loisach river valley. Deep breaths expand and fill my lungs with the slightest hints of hay, fresh cut grass, cow dung, and woodsmoke. Brightly illuminated pastures beckon me forward, one foot in front of the other. Blank looks from the “bayerische Kühe” sprawled out on the grass suggest a possible course of action. Except for the part about the blank faces …

I’ve already seen a number of people in the valley as the train weaved its way down from the summit. Couples are out on their walks. Their slow gait is not representative of age or condition; their easy stroll reflects years- and decades-long familiarity with the area.

With a smile, I’ll greet passersby with “Grüss Gott”. I’m in small conversation, proceeding typically in one-way flow: “where are you from?”, “how did you learn German?”, “how long are you here?”, and “do you like the area?” My final answer often surprises them most: “ich würde hier lange bleiben, wenn ich könnte.” (I’d stay here longer, if I could.)

Standing in an illuminated river valley surrounded by the Alps on a queit afternoon, idyll has another name. Hausberg belongs right here in the now.

Loisach valley, near Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hausberg, fotoeins.com
Loisach valley, near Garmisch-Partenkirchen Hausberg, fotoeins.com
Loisach valley at Hausberg, fotoeins.com

Loisach valley, at Hausberg, near Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Ausserfernbahn DB train, to Reutte in Tirol, fotoeins.com

Deutsche Bahn “Ausserfernbahn” train, to Austria’s Reutte in Tirol

Tracks shared by Bayerische Zugspitzbahn and Ausserfernbahn, Hausberg, fotoeins.com

Tracks shared by Bayerische Zugspitzbahn and Deutsche Bahn

Bovine residents at Hausberg, fotoeins.com
Bovines, meadows, Alps: Hausberg, Garmisch-Partenkirchen, fotoeins.com

Simple things in Bavaria: cows, meadows, and Alps

Reaching Hausberg

Visitors staying in Garmisch-Partenkirchen can easily walk the short distance from either of the twin towns; hop on the regional “Ausserfernbahn” train from Garmisch-Partenkirchen to Reutte (in Tirol) and request to disembark at Hausberg; or disembarking from the Bayerische Zugspitzbahn cog railway on the way back from the Zugspitze summit. The flat stretch of Loisach river valley is easily walkable on the paved pedestrian path from Garmisch-Partenkirchen on the way to Grainau, Eibsee lake, and beyond.

I made all of the photos above on 9 October 2011. This post appears on Fotoeins Fotopress at fotoeins.com.

The twin towns of Garmisch-Partenkirchen, Bavaria

Good delish eats in Germany

“Leckeres Essen in Deutschland”

CAUTION: The photos you are about to see may cause unstoppable drooling. If you get the case of the noms, I claim full responsibility.


Over a two-week interval one autumn a few years ago, I went up and down the length of Germany. I began in Frankfurt am Main, made a short hop north to Köln (Cologne), further north to Hamburg, back down to Frankfurt, east to München (Munich), south to Garmisch-Partenkirchen, and finally, back to where I started in Frankfurt.

That journey amounted to 1900 km (1200 mi) of travel on the train; it’s a good thing there was some food in between travel legs.

Wiener Schnitzel, RheinZeit, Köln, Koeln, Cologne, 29.09.2011

Foreground: Wiener veal-schnitzel w. fries, lemon slices, capers, sardines. Background: Flammkuche w. feta, green chiles, olives, onion. At RheinZeit in Köln.

Döner Oruc, Köln, Koeln, Cologne, Germany, 29.09.2011

Döner sandwich with cilanto, onion, red hot peppercorns; Ayran yogurt-drink : Oruc, Köln.

Mangal, Köln, Koeln, Cologne, Germany, 30.09.2011

Lunch starter, thin bread with spicy red dip, sour cream w/ carrot, cucumber : Mangal, Köln.

Mangal, Köln, Koeln, Cologne, Germany, 30.09.2011

Lunch main, grilled lamb over wood/coal grill : Mangal, Köln.

Künefe, Kuenefe, Mangal, Köln, Koeln, Cologne, Germany, 30.09.2011

Künefe, baked dessert on honey layer, w/ angel hair, cheese center, topped w/ cream & walnuts : Mangal, Köln.

Currywurst, Edelcurry, Hamburg, Germany, 1.10.2011

Currywurst (spicy), fries, Fritz-Kola : Edelcurry, Hamburg.

Hamsi Meral's Imbiss, Frankfurt am Main, 3.10.2011

Fried-fish sandwich, fresh lemonade : Meral’s Imbiss, Frankfurt am Main; more here.

Jägerbraten with Spätzle, Jaegerbraten with Spaetzle, Gasthof Werdenfelser-Hof, Partenkirchen, 8.10.2011

Jägerbraten (hunter’s style roast pork in mushroom sauce) with homemade Spätzle : Gasthof Werdenfelser-Hof, Partenkirchen.

Even with this small sample, I do think food throughout Germany can be colourful and tasty, and can offer variety outside of the traditional “meat and starch” fare. Now and again, I do want the latter; the final photo above is evidence of that!

I made all of the photos above in the fall of 2011. This post is published originally on Fotoeins Fotopress at fotoeins.com.


More Käsespätzle? Yes, please!

No Connection, Unpaid, My Own Opinions Disclosure: No Connection, Unpaid, My Own Opinions. I have not received any compensation for writing this content and I have no material connection to the brands, topics and/or products that are mentioned herein (cmp.ly/0).

Bayerische Zugspitzbahn, Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Ascent to Zugspitze, the top of Germany

Around the Alps, the following questions are often asked: is it cloudy? If it is and I decide to go up, will I see nothing but near-zero visibility?

On an October morning, skies were overcast, but there were some promising clear patches around. Rainshowers over the previous couple of nights down in Garmisch-Partenkirchen town would have been snow at elevations higher than about 1000 metres, which meant all of the “local hills” would be frosted in white.

I took a chance and decided to ascend Zugspitze. It’d be all or nothing: a view full of glory, or a view with a whole lot of grey.

4 ways up top

There are four ways to Zugspitze, which at an altitude of 2960 metres above sea level is the highest spot in Germany. One way up is to scale the mountain on foot for the experienced trekker and climber. For the rest of us, there are three alternative routes to the summit:

•   Bayerische Zugspitzbahn cogwheel railway from Garmisch-Partenkirchen;
•   Eibsee-Seilbahn, aerial tramway from Eibsee, down the road from Garmisch-Partenkirchen; and
•   Tiroler Zugspitzbahn, aerial tramway from Ehrwald in Tirol, on the other side of the valley in Austria.

For the ascent, I rode the Zugspitzbahn railway to Eibsee, and took the aerial tramway up to the summit. Despite the possible snow up top, this was still the “summer season”. The round-trip to the summit costs € 48 per person (summer 2011), which sounds expensive, but as you’ll see in this and subsequent posts, I believe the trip was worth the price.

Bayerische Zugspitzbahn, Garmisch-Partenkirchen

Zugspitzbahn station in Garmisch-Partenkirchen.

Bayerische Zugspitzbahn, Garmisch-Partenkirchen

The way up. “Halt auf Verlangen” | stop upon request.

Zugspitzbahn leaving Eibsee station

Zugspitzbahn leaving Eibsee station for the summit.

With operations starting in 1963, the Eibsee aerial tramway was designed as an alternative and faster means of ascending the Zugspitze summit.

Over the total 4.5 kilometres (2.8 miles) horizontal distance traveled, there are just two pylons or support towers, lifting the aerial tram vertically over 1950 metres (6400 feet) from the lower-station in the valley (about 1000 metres or 3280 feet above sea level) to the upper-station near the summit (2960 metres or 9700 feet above sea level). The height of the towers are 65 and 85 metres (213 and 279 feet, respectively), which makes the latter the tallest cable support-tower in the country. At its steepest near the summit, the aerial tramway reaches a grade of 46 degrees.

Eibsee cable car schematic

Eibsee cable car: just TWO support towers over a horizontal length of 4.5 kilometres, a vertical climb of almost 2 kilometres, and a maximum grade of 46 degrees.

Eibseeseilbahn Talstation

Looking up from the Eibseeseilbahn Talstation | lower station, Eibsee cable car.

1st tower, Eibseeseilbahn (cable car)

On the Eibsee cable car to the first tower.

To the 2nd tower, Eibseeseilbahn

On the Eibseeseilbahn, up to the second tower.

Looking down, Eibseeseilbahn

On the Eibseeseilbahn: breaking through the clouds.

Eibsee lake

Past the second tower, looking back down to Eibsee.

Ridge along Grosse Riffelwandspitze

Ridge along Grosse Riffelwandspitze; ice and snow chunks from the cable.

Cross marks the summit

Gipfelkreuz (summit cross) on the Bavaria/Germany side.

Austrian side of Zugspitze

Towards the frozen Tirolian/Austrian side of Zugspitze.

Despite the clouds at mid-level, the chance I took with the trip up to the summit proved very rewarding, as the aerial tramway broke through the clouds and into clear blue skies at the Zugspitze summit.

In the next posts, I highlight the exquisite view of the surroundings under a fresh layer of snow.

Have you also gone up to the highest point in Germany? Please leave your comments below!


The series:

•   Ascent to Zugspitze, the top of Germany (this post)
•   Zugspitze summit : part 1, German side
•   Zugspitze summit : part 2, Austrian side
•   Zugspitze summit : part 3, Austrian side, after the clouds cleared
•   Zugspitze : part 4, the summit and the plateau below

I made the photos above on 9 October 2011. This post is published on Fotoeins Fotopress at fotoeins.com.

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